After more than one year staying far from this very nice hidden spot I recently spent a few mornings exploring on my own on self-belay trying to identify new possible lines.
Climbing at the Sunset Wall in Nai Harn is probably not a must-to-do thing, however it can still give some nice adrenaline shots and a genuine lesson of technical climbing.
As described in my previous post, there are two clear lines on the left of the wall easily climbable setting up an anchor on a boulder sitting on the top of the little cliff.
A part from these, more on the right there are at least 3 more potential nice lines yet since the anchor is positioned too much on the left side, it is not really convenient to climb on self-belay and even with a belayar, a fall would guarantee a long pendulum.
After a few tries on my own I came back with Maria to help me with the belay. Eventually I managed to send a very nice line that in my opinion is a short and solid 7a.
The route has probably less than 10 powerful movements including an exciting dyno. It starts with some crimps and a right hand side-pull to go on a left hand sloppy hole. From here a pure-strength movement to reach a sharp ledge bring up the feet and re-positioning the body for the dyno. The exit is a very delicate dance on non-existent feel holds and very sharp crimps! The name of this line is…Dynopussy!
Everybody is very welcome to try it and possibly confirm the grade.
|Maria abseiling the wall|
|Maria on Finger's skin - 6a|
|Dynopussy! - 7a|